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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.